LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
vulnerable. While it is ultimately
the skipper’s responsibility to ensure
the safe stowage of gear, I think it
should also be incumbent on the
boatbuilder to provide adequate
physical protection of equipment
and systems installed in spaces that
also are intended for other uses.
Mark Elgar
Orillia, Ontario
are needed if I want to install the
appropriate stranded marine-grade
wire. What is the solution?
Ken Ronney
Reseda, California
You are correct—solid wiring
cannot be used for shipboard wiring.
There are two ways to deal with the
issue you describe. Many receptacles
(but not all) use a clamp-type
mechanism that retains the wire by
means of a screw that is tightened
after it’s been inserted into a small
hole in the back of the receptacle.
Provided the retention method is via
an indirect bearing clamp, rather
than the screw making direct contact
with the wire, use of stranded wire
typically is acceptable (you can
Thanks for the reminder, Mark.
You’re exactly right—the loose items
in both lockers should be secured
against movement. When stowing
gear that is substantially heavy, extra
care must be taken in the selection
and installation of straps and tie-
down points, by both the owner and
the manufacturer.
WIRING CONUNDRUM
I’ve been following Steve D.’s
technical articles for many years and
keep reading his emphatic directives
to use nothing but stranded marine-grade wiring throughout the boat.
On my boat, I’ve run into a bit of a
conundrum when installing 120VAC
wiring. The GFCI outlets are
designed to accept solid wire into
the inlet slots in the rear, or to have
solid wire wrapped around the
screw terminals. Stranded marine-grade wire just won’t work in the
slots or directly under the screws.
The screw terminals do not
have enough room around them to
accommodate the crimp lugs that
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